The 2004 DOLIUM RESERVA is a blend of Trincadeira (20%) and Aragonez (80%). The tannins have largely resolved now, although with air some ripe, tingly tannins emerge, and this elegant wine is showing more sedately and more harmoniously now than when first encountered, with a creamy texture on opening. It acquires some character as it airs out and is often quite delicious, with just a little bit of olives and herbs in the background. The mid-palate is not particularly concentrated but it does make the wine seem graceful when played off against the intensity of flavor, and it remains very persistent as it airs out, arguably better after 45 minutes than when opened. This has developed nicely, and I’m expanding the drinking window a little, but I do wonder whether it has anywhere to go with much more cellaring. I suspect folks will be happiest if it is drunk younger, to be safe. It is surely lovely now, fragrant, tasty and bright. Drink now-2014. Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044.
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