A 2003 Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest, vinified entirely in new oak which is nevertheless scarcely noticeable, smells of yellow plums and gooseberry preserve laced with honey and dusted with brown spices. On the palate, it is imposingly plush and dense, lingering with faintly bittersweet citrus peel, plum skin, honey and lanolin. Surprisingly, there is also a promising dry 2005 Chenin Blanc here, and both a rather tight dry and a quite sugar-laden “semi-dry” 2005 Riesling. Tel. (631) 722-8800

Some chalk and mineral on the green-apple nose, followed by tart citrus flavors that are propelled by firm acidity. Clean and lean, with scouring lemon to the finish. Potentially too sharp for some folks; others, however, may go for its razor-like personality.——W.E.(7/1/2005)—— 87

Charles Massoud began working these soils in 1983, and any who meet him will quickly recognize that his is still a labor of love, joined in the cellar now by his oldest son, Kareem. His 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, tasted from tank, offers scents of mint, melon, and grapefruit, citric luscious palate presence, and a pungently herb and citrus rind-inflected yet juicy finish. Tel. (631) 722-8800