The 2022 Dry Riesling comes in with just one gram of residual sugar, 6.2 of total acidity and 11.8% alcohol. Bottled in January, this is not set for release until August 1, 2023. I often talk about Finger Lakes acidity in Riesling, but this does a really nice job of lifting the fruit and creating tension on the finish. It's classic in every way, textured, bright and capable of aging. Under screw-cap, this should hold very well, but I'm hoping it can also develop and improve a bit. If you like them dry, this is a beauty today (and hopefully that remains so when released). On many of the winery's submissions, I've been saying they will hold a bit, but there really is no point to holding them. Here, you may well reap some rewards if you give this even two or three more years in the bottle.

The 2020 Dry Riesling comes in with just two grams per liter of residual sugar and seven of total acidity, making it a bit crisper than last year's, plus 10.8% alcohol. Given the price point, this might be the best intersection of value and quality in Long Island Riesling in this report, although it's close. This avoids any shrillness and seems nicely balanced while still earning its spurs as a properly dry Dry Riesling. There's a hint of tartness on the finish and a texture that allows it to coat the palate. It's not a big overachiever this year, but it certainly represents the category well. I'd also note that it is not so open right now, unlike its recent predecessor, and it has a chance to improve over the next year or so. It can certainly be drunk now, though. It is going to be a particularly nice food pairing in warmer weather. It should hold throughout most of this decade, maybe more.

The 2019 Dry Riesling actually comes in a little elevated in sugar this year with six grams per liter, although the 6.7 of total acidity balances it well so that it still seems dry. It comes in at 11% alcohol. If not quite austere—the fruit is expressive and tasty—this sure has a slightly tart edge in its youth. There's plenty of tension and a bit of mouth pucker. You won't think any acidity is missing here. This seems surprisingly solid in the mid-palate too, as well as juicy on the crisp finish. Classic in flavor and aromatics, and very energetic, this is another lovely Riesling from the Massouds. Under screwcap—and with this structure—this should age pretty well. It will show better in the later part of this summer.

The 2018 Dry Riesling comes in with four grams per liter of residual sugar, six of total acidity and 11% alcohol. In bottle almost 90 days when tasted, this was in pretty good shape. A bit of spritz (they sometimes bottle with a little residual CO2) blows off quickly to allow a dry and tense Riesling to emerge. Lean, crisp and rather acidic, this has a hint of green apple and herbs on the end to go with the enlivening fruit. This is always a wine with lots of acidity, and in this vintage, it is no different. The juicy finish is terrific for its grip and its length. However, I'm not quite as sure the fruit is equally impressive, although it's not bad. While I admired this wine's energy most of all, the fruit needs to prove it can develop more character. I won't be surprised if that answer becomes clearer in the spring of 2020 than it is now. This has many virtues if you like them intense, but let's be a little conservative for the moment. In the meanwhile, the price isn't too daunting, and this has a lot to offer no matter what.

The 2017 Dry Riesling comes in with four grams per liter of residual sugar and 11% alcohol. Paumanok is one of the best examples on Long Island that proves that Long Island Riesling can be "a thing," even if made exclusively from Long Island grapes. Their own vineyard has maturity, and they've been doing this for a while, so they know what they're doing too. On opening, this has a rather lush feel this year, but that's an illusion. Air and warmth bring out the acidity, and there is plenty of tension on the finish. This very young Riesling needs at least a little time to come together and regain its balance. It should be drinking better this summer (or even next summer). In the meanwhile, it seems like a fine effort in a tough year. It should age very well (it is under screwcap too), perhaps better than anticipated, so there is no rush.