Among recent instantiations of Paumanok’s numerous whites, their 2008 Chenin Blanc was especially noteworthy. Scents and flavors of quince and orange rind are backed on the palate by blazingly bright citricity that completely checks the wine’s low-level residual sugar while conveying an almost metallic, reflective sheen. Impressively vivacious and tenacious, this needs a couple of years in bottle to settle down. As is so often the case with this grape variety anywhere in the New World, those who love it from the Loire will not find here many virtues – nor an overall visage – that are much reminiscent. But that is to take nothing away from the delicious distinctiveness – not to mention the sheer tenacity – of the present wine. Veteran Charles Massoud and his oldest son, Kareem, are practicing increasing selectivity and sorting of fruit as well as ever more sensitive and targeted extraction, and their 2007s build on and refine the success of their 2005s.Tel. (631) 722-8800