The 2012 Pantelleria Passito Liquoroso is made from air-dried Moscato d’Alessandria (also called Zibibbo) from the windy island of Pantelleria as a sweet dessert wine. But extra alcohol is added to fortify the wine, giving it extra warmth and intensity. Indeed, you do feel that 15% alcohol as the wine hits the palate. But you are also awarded a bountiful bouquet that explodes with dried figs, white raisins, dark honey and dusty mineral tones at the back. The overall effect is so stunning there’s no mistaking the distinct Pantelleria identity that comes forward thanks to the beautifully intense quality of fruit. This is a very sweet, but sophisticated wine that would pair beautifully against an aged slice of pungent pecorino cheese. Drink 2015-2030. The Carlo Pellegrino brand includes wines from Cantine Pellegrino 1880 and wines made under the Duca di Castelmonte sub-brand. The winery is one of the oldest and most productive in the sleepy portside town of Masala in the southwest corner of Sicily. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, www.frederickwildman.com