A blend of roughly 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, this bottling from Perrin & Fils is dense and firm, with enough structure to suggest aging through 2010 at least. Yet it’s also wonderfully perfumed, featuring floral and spice notes as well as dark berries that are almost liqueur-like in their intensity. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 90

Rather firmly tannic, but also packed with superripe fruit—it will be a close contest to see which lasts longest. Chocolate, brandied fruit cake and plums finish tough and chewy. Try it now with rare meats to help tame the tannins, or cross your fingers and wait. Imported by Vineyard Brands. ——J.C.(11/15/2005)—— 88