The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva bursts from the glass with huge black fruit, spices, smoke, tar and licorice. The weight and sheer power of this site in Castelnuovo dell’Abate comes through in the wine’s depth and enveloping personality. Today the oak is quite present, but the 2006 appears to have enough muscle and intensity to handle the smaller barrels. A dramatic, intensely satisfying finish rounds things out in style. The 2006 Riserva spent two years in tonneaux followed by one and a half years in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. It is hard to imagine how much Jan Erbach and Caroline Pobitzer have accomplished in just a few years. Erbach and Pobitzer embody the same adventurous, risk-taking ethos one rarely sees in Montalcino, but which is much more common among top-flight, artisan growers in Burgundy, Piedmont and Champagne. Pian dell’Orino is still a young estate, and the wines can sometimes be a bit inconsistent, especially the Riserva, which I don’t think is still fully formed from a conceptual standpoint. Still, I have little doubt the potential is there for Pian dell’Orino to be one of the top ten producers in Montalcino in a few years. The writing is on the wall. Hard work, passion and dedication always pay off. Jan Erbach describes 2007 as similar to 2003, with the exception of rain during July, which helped the vines recuperate a bit. The harvest was earlier than normal and took place from September 20 to October 1. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The earthy and funky character is somewhat bothersome in this medium-bodied red, which shows slightly barnyardy character, but there's some attractive ripe fruit character. Turns a little dry. Needs drinking. Drink now. 170 cases made, 50 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has improved considerably since I last tasted it two years ago. Firm yet well-balanced tannins support expressive dark red cherries, flowers, licorice, tobacco and spices. The oxidative notes that were so prominent have become more subdued, while the fruit seems to have gained in freshness and depth. Don’t ask me how that is possible, because I honestly don’t know. All I can say is that the 2004 Riserva today is a much better wine than the three bottles I tasted previously. It will be interesting to see what the future holds in store. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. It is hard to imagine how much Jan Erbach and Caroline Pobitzer have accomplished in just a few years. Erbach and Pobitzer embody the same adventurous, risk-taking ethos one rarely sees in Montalcino, but which is much more common among top-flight, artisan growers in Burgundy, Piedmont and Champagne. Pian dell’Orino is still a young estate, and the wines can sometimes be a bit inconsistent, especially the Riserva, which I don’t think is still fully formed from a conceptual standpoint. Still, I have little doubt the potential is there for Pian dell’Orino to be one of the top ten producers in Montalcino in a few years. The writing is on the wall. Hard work, passion and dedication always pay off. Jan Erbach describes 2007 as similar to 2003, with the exception of rain during July, which helped the vines recuperate a bit. The harvest was earlier than normal and took place from September 20 to October 1. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404