The Piero Busso 2016 Barbaresco Albesani Vigna Borgese is a little riper and a little sweeter than the other Barbaresco samples submitted by this estate. The wine delivers lots of primary fruit with summer cherry, blackberry and a touch of peach or candied orange peel. Its primary fruit component is the protagonist, but elegant tones of spice, licorice and tar do play effective supporting roles.

Piero Busso’s 2009 Barbaresco Borgese wafts from the glass with crushed flowers, sweet dried cherries, anise and leather. This soft, caressing Barbaresco is quite pretty, but it is also a touch faded, which suggests it needs to be enjoyed sooner rather than later. Sweet floral notes add lift and also an element of fragility on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243; Grape Vine of North Carolina, Concord, NC; tel. (704) 786-6406; Bond Street?Imports, Charlotte,?NC; tel. (704) 521-1353

The 2008 Barbaresco Borgese is an attractive, up-front wine with good juiciness and inner perfume. It is a supple, approachable Barbaresco best enjoyed on the young side. Dark cherries, crushed flowers and spices wrap around the inviting finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. This is one of the most impressive lineups I have ever tasted from Piero Busso. It’s great to see this small, artisanal grower doing so well. Hopefully this is a sign of even greater things to come. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243, Grape Vine of North Carolina, Concord, NC; tel. (704) 786-6406, Bond Street?Imports, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 521-1353

Piero Busso’s 2007 Barbaresco Borgese offers up red berries, crushed flowers and mint along with a pretty, accessible personality. This shows terrific persistence and roundnness in a deceptively medium-bodied style. An inviting, harmonious finish makes this an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2020. Importer: Bond Street?Imports, Charlotte,?NC; tel. (704) 521-1353

The 2006 Barbaresco Borgese offers up flowers, red cherries, menthol, spices and French oak on a mid-weight frame. This is a very pretty, harmonious wine from Piero Busso that should drink well upon release. Borgese is a sub-plot of the Albesani vineyard in Neive. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Piero Busso, a small grower in Neive, makes wines in an approachable, fruit-driven style. Importers: J.A.O. Wine Imports, Mc Lean, VA; tel. (703) 628-9615