Gonon's 2019 Saint Joseph retains the typical floral signature on the nose, but it is more dark-fruited than usual, with notes of black cherries, blackberries and even black olives. It's medium to full-bodied, the first vintage recorded over 14% alcohol, according to Jean Gonon (14.2%). Concentrated, rich and velvety in feel, it boasts a long, gently chewy finish and should age well.

More floral and red fruited than the 2019, Gonon's 2018 Saint Joseph is a medium to full-bodied effort that will please fans of this exemplary estate. Cherries and raspberries are joined by hints of violets and mint on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is starting to close down just a bit and show firm but ripe and silky tannins on the long, mouthwatering finish. Try to avoid opening a bottle for another few years, as the first flattering flush of youth is fast giving way to sullen adolescence.

The 2017 Saint Joseph offers up effusive notes of mint, black olives and black cherries. As usual, the Gonons have managed to combine herbal, savory and fruity elements into a compelling, harmonious whole. The wine is medium to full-bodied and fully ripe, perhaps not quite as lush and fruit-driven as the 2018, but it's still a tremendous success, capped off by gentle tannins and salted licorice on the long finish.

Looking even better than it did from barrel, the 2016 Saint Joseph was singing last summer when I tasted it at the domaine. Truffle-like earthy florals accent peppery herbs, blending seamlessly with olives and raspberries on the nose. The palate is medium to full-bodied, rich and velvety, voluptuous even, yet balanced and vibrant, with a long, mouthwatering finish.