Very complex is the 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, made from 100% Cabernet and aged 12 months in French oak prior to bottling. It boasts textbook cedar wood, tobacco-tinged soy and black currant flavors, an opulent texture, low acidity, full body, and outstanding ripeness, purity, and richness. It should drink well for a decade. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The dark purple-colored 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) exhibits a textbook bouquet of cigar box, cedar, and black currant aromas nicely supported by subtle toasty oak. Made in an international style, without any characteristics that speak of Italy or Sicily, it is chewy and rich, with good jammy fruit, decent acidity, and low tannin. It should drink well for a decade. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200