The 1998 Brut Liesse d’Harbonville shows notable balance in a focused, driven style. Smoke, minerals, apricots and baking spices come together in a refined, elegant style. The mousse is finessed and the finish retains tons of energy all the way through to the close. This delicious Champagne at times shows elements of Chablis-like minerality in its understatement and polish, but with a touch more volume. Today the wine is quite fresh and should continue to drink well for at least another decade or so. The Liesse d’Harbonville is made from Premier Cru fruit and vinified in oak barrels. Disgorged: February, 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Importer: Weygandt Metzler Importing, Ltd., Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The house’s tete de cuvee 1996 Brut Liesse d’Harbonville is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot (Noir and Meunier) aged exclusively in French oak, but with no malolactic fermentation. This is a gorgeous bottling that achieves marvelous richness in its ripe apricots, smoke, minerals, brioche, honey and sweet toasted oak, all while maintaining the acidity and verve that keeps the wine in balance. The warm, toasty aromas and flavors are beautifully balanced in this extroverted, lively wine. This is a terrific Champagne from Ployez-Jacquemart. This bottle was disgorged September, 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016.These elegant Champagnes from Ployez-Jacquemart are all about finesse and balance.Importer: Weygandt Metzler Importing, Ltd., Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.