During my visit to the winery, the 2018 Dogliani was described as a "delicate baby." The tannin management for the Dolcetto can be tricky. And while there has always been a careful selection process during harvest for the fruit ultimately used in the Dogliani, this year they decided to do less fruit thinning. The end product shows good acidity, a wine that is crunchy and elegant and not very heavy in the mouth. It it will flesh out with time. Production stands at 150,000 bottles.

It's impossible not to love this fruity, soft and succulent wine. The 2015 Dogliani is an exuberant and lively Dolcetto that opens to a dark and inky appearance. Black currant, dried blueberry, sweet chocolate and tobacco all play supporting roles. This easy-drinking grape just loves a warm vintage (like 2015).

The 2011 Dogliani (Dolcetto) is a gorgeous wine. Bacon fat, game, tar and licorice give the 2011 an exotic, wild air that is highly appealing. At times the 2011 resembles Aglianico in its sheer complexity. Layers of fruit continue to build to the deep, resonant finish. This is a gorgeous wine for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Einaudi is another Piedmont winery with plenty of great choices in all price ranges. The estate is located in Dogliani (unusual for Barolo producers), so it is hardly surprising Dolcetto is a specialty. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900