Tight but promising, the 1999 Rosso della Langhe (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Barbera, and Nebbiolo that spent 18 months in French oak) offers up intense aromas of tobacco, cherry cough syrup, vanilla, licorice, and melted road tar. Piedmontese in both taste and texture, it is dense, full-bodied, and intense, with a long, rich finish exhibiting sweet tannin and lively acidity. It should last for a decade or more. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Complex, but supple is the 1998 Rosso della Langhe, a blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Barbera, and Nebbiolo aged 18 months in French oak. This full-bodied 1998 offers complex notes of tobacco, black currants, and toast. Glycerin and extract coat the palate in this deep, chewy offering that borders on being internationally-styled, yet retains plenty of Piedmontese typicity. Drink it over the next 5-7 years, although I suspect it will last longer. Importer: Neil Empson, Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

An interesting Einaudi offering is the 1997 Rosso della Langhe, a blend of equal parts Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot aged 18 months in French oak. It is a full-bodied effort with huge levels of fruit and extract, but not much complexity. The new oak is largely hidden by the wine's wealth of jammy red and black fruits. If more complexity emerges, look for the score to rise a few points, but for now, it is a big, thick, monolithic fruit bomb made in an international style. It should drink well for 10-12 years. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 1996 Rosso della Langhe is a barrique-aged (18 months in new French oak) blend of equal parts Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. The terrific raw materials available in the 1996 vintage have given this wine a multi-dimensional, slightly international style with exhilarating levels of black cherry and cassis fruit, spicy new oak, dried herbs, and a long, dense, velvety-textured finish. Luscious and complex, it is ideal for drinking now and over the next 10-12 years. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900