Podversic Damijan's 2015 Nekaj is a pure expression of the Friulano grape that has been submitted to elaborate and careful fermentation and aging techniques (on the skins) that add to the honey-like intensity found in abundance here. The wine opens to a saturated golden color with fragrant aromas of candied orange skin, dried yellow rose and caramel. There is a dusty mineral or limestone aroma at the back. This full-bodied white could pair perfectly with a Peking duck of the crunchy-skin sort.

A pure expression of the local Friulano grape, the 2014 Nekaj is an oak-aged wine that undergoes long skin maceration times that range from two to three months, depending on the vintage. The wine's color is orange in appearance with deep golden and amber saturation. The bouquet offers tones of apricot, candied orange peel, blanched almond and crushed river stone. Some 5,000 bottles were made.

The 2011 Nekaj is a pure expression of Friulano executed as a so-called orange wine. The wine's appearance shows a deep amber color with tangerine highlights. On the nose, it delivers bone dry tones of crushed mineral, candied fruit and butterscotch. The style achieved here is highly oxidative both in color and taste. This warm vintage edition also shows a spot of tart sourness on the close, as well as 15.5% alcohol that leaves a mark.

The 2009 Nekaj (100% Friulano) shows oxidized aromas of caramel and butterscotch with subtle shadings of fruity apricot and pineapple. The wine sports a bright, golden-orange color with tight firmness at the back. This white wine is built to last and will develop complexity in time. Drink: 2014-2020. These are a great set of Orange wines from natural winemaker Damijan Podversic. Importers: Omniwines Distributing, www.omniwines.com; Vinity Wine Company, www.vinitywinecompany.com

The 2007 Nekaj (Friulano) is rich and enveloping in its stone fruit, mint, dried flowers and crushed rocks. The wine turns more explosive on the mid-palate, leading to a pointed, nicely articulated finish layered with saline, minerally notes. Like so many of Damijan’s wines, the Nejak grows considerably with time in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Damijan Podversic is another of the young growers in Friuli who amply deserves more attention. These densely planted vineyards are farmed meticulously, while the approach in the stripped down winery is equally minimalist. Deeply influenced by his friend and mentor Josko Gravner, Damijan crafts gorgeous, textured whites. The wines see extended skin contact and are aged in cask. The wines need to be opened an hour or two in advance and should be served at cellar temperature or slightly above (but not chilled) in red wine glasses. No American importer.