Harvested two weeks after the bulk of the fruit that informed this year’s Riesling Federspiel, what Bodenstein calls that wine’s “big brother” – the 2010 Riesling Smaragd Steinriegl – certainly displays greater ripeness of flavor and harmony of acids. Apple and cassis are accompanied by wet stone and alkaline intimations of things mineral already in the nose, and joined by nut oils on a polished palate. There is notable sense of buoyancy for a Smaragd, enhanced by the effect of dissolved CO2, and a persistently invigorating finish that incorporates just a hint of apple skin chew. I suspect that this will be best enjoyed over the next 3-5 years. “True, we had higher than normal acid levels,” relates Toni Bodenstein, “but I did things differently than in other years; three things, namely. The first was to let the grapes hang especially long, and all of the Smaragd was harvested in November. Then, I employed up to 17 hours of skin contact, which reduced the acidity by a gram, sometimes even more. Of course, that was tartaric acid, but due to the long hang time and healthy fruit, we had a high ratio of tartaric. And after long fermentations – not ended before February – we added no sulfur whatsoever and retained the fine lees, which we then stirred weekly through April, making for even higher extract levels and more buffering. And given the high extract and low pH levels, these wines needed comparatively little sulfur at bottling, which with the exception of one early portion of Federspiel, took place in May. To have de-acidified them,” he concludes emphatically, “would have been to risk stripping them of their souls.” Given the tiny size of his crop, Bodenstein elected to forgo separate bottlings from two sites each in Riesling and Gruner Veltliner, instead supplementing his two Federspiel bottlings with that fruit (even if their vineyard designations on the labels stayed the same) “and even then,” he notes, “with Weitenberg and Liebenberg added into the Hinter der Burg, for example, I ended up with less than 50% of the volume of that Federspiel in 2009.”Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Bodenstein’s 2007 Riesling Smaragd Steinriegl certainly makes me believe in the power of suggestion (if not in any direct communication from rocks) because knowing that this site is unusual for its marble content, this is a metaphorically marble-lined wine if ever it existed: cool, polished, and mysteriously reflective of ripe melon and pit fruits, and shimmering with spice, pepper, and mineral pungency. Is it sticking to my tongue or my tongue to it? And talk about “extract sweetness’ (as one is apt to do, in German anyway): this has it in spades. I’d plan to follow this for 6-8 years. Incidentally it was harvested mid-November, in what Bodenstein says was a rain-free week. This was one of our most expensive and laborious harvests ever, says Toni Bodenstein, adding that if the mere two bottlings he does of Federspiel had not this year represented a full 50% of his production, the attention and selectivity necessary for the quality of all the other wines would not have been possible. Bodenstein notes that he didn’t risk long skin contact this year, as he did not want to risk losing tartaric acidity to precipitation.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2006 Riesling Smaragd Steinriegl – harvested in early November – returns us to something of the clarity displayed by the corresponding Federspiel. Certainly this is wonderfully ripe, but not so boisterously esterous nor aggressive in the manner of the Kaiserberg and Hollerin. Citrus oils, peach kernel, and pungent floral notes combine for a piquant aromatic and palate impression, with underlying suggestions of toasted nuts and chalk, and a long, invigorating finish. I’d plan to follow this for 5-7 years. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The Steinriegl vineyard fruit results in a tight, structured Riesling. The fruit is taut and very crisp, with acidity and flavors of green apples and citrus. At the moment, it is showing fresh fruit, but the potential is considerable, a wine that will age over 10 years at least.——R.V.(5/1/2008)—— 94