The exuberant, showy, perfumed and floral 2020 Touriga Nacional is a textbook example of the modern interpretation of the variety. It's ripe (14.5% alcohol), generous and combines freshness with power, mixing grapes from north and south expositions. They selected the best grapes, from two plots planted in 1985, and fermented them destemmed with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks. It matured in French oak barrels for 18 months. It's juicy, has a velvety palate, a soft mouthfeel and round, elegant tannins, tasty and long. This is the most famous grape from Portugal at the moment. It's approachable but has the ingredients and the balance between them to age gracefully. 6,392 bottles, 200 magnums and 50 double-magnums produced. It was bottled in February 2023.

The 2019 Touriga Nacional was aged for 16 to 18 months, depending on which of two plots was used, in 90% new oak. It comes in at 14.6% alcohol. Sensually textured and rather fragrant, this carefully constructed Touriga firmly announces itself. The blue fruits roll across the tongue, then the wine tightens and closes a little. As understated as this sometimes is, there is power here lurking underneath, which will stand this in good stead as it ages, but it is perfectly balanced and a lot more refined than either the Touriga Franca or Tinta Roriz in this report. It is by far the most sensual of the three monovarietals in this report, the one that promises to caress the palate. Concentrated and structured, it seems poised to age well. You could approach this now, but giving it a couple of years, at least, in the cellar would surely improve it. Coming on the heels of the lovely 2018, this is a fine follow-up. Which is better? That's a question to be definitively answered in a few years when they are both here together and have some age on them. They seem on the same level. There were 10,102 bottles produced, plus some large-format bottles.

The 2018 Touriga Nacional was aged for 16 to 18 months, depending on which of two plots, in 90% new oak. It comes in at just 14.6% alcohol. More flavorful and aromatic than its sibling, the Touriga Franca, this is otherwise along the same lines. This Touriga Nacional maintains the Franca's mid-palate finesse, as well as the feeling it projects that it is the crushed essence of the grape. There's a little oak present, but not as much as you might think. This, too, will absorb the oak even better with a couple of years in the cellar, but the wood is very well handled. It is not really intrusive even now, and there is no "drenched in vanilla" demeanor at all. The tannins are very ripe, but with aeration this becomes much firmer on the finish, proving that it has the structure to age. Of all of Crasto's upper-level wines this report, it is probably this that most leans to hedonism, thanks to the aromatics and flavor, yet it is still very elegant and carefully crafted. It is never a sloppy fruit bomb. This succulent and enticing Touriga Nacional is impossible to resist, even today, but you will definitely be rewarded if you give it a few years of age to become more expressive. There were just 9,113 bottles produced, plus some larger format bottles.

The 2017 Touriga Nacional was aged for 16 to 18 months, depending on the plot, in 90% new, light-toast French oak. This was bottled just about 10 days before this tasting. It comes in at just 13.5% alcohol, on par with the 2016 even in this big vintage. Winemaker Manuel Lobo said it was picked September 6—very early—and he at first feared that he picked too early. However, he said there was "excellent fruit expression, great concentration and ripe tannins. The amount of fruit per vine was very small." If there is a flaw in the Touriga Franca—well, just call it a different style of grape, not really a flaw—it is that it doesn't have a big personality, although it represents the grape very well. Problem (if you view it as one) solved, although in Crasto's world, Touriga Nacional always has some restraint. This adds expressive blue fruits, a more elegant demeanor and enticing—but not obnoxious—aromatics. It has plenty of power of its own, easily matching and surpassing the Touriga Franca (although a step behind the Tinta Roriz). Dry, serious, fresh and invigorating, this is a potentially great Crasto Touriga. However, given the recent bottling coupled with travel, I'm going to use a range here. The only issue, however, is how good it is. Manuel said he believes the early picking date was the right decision. There were 8,276 bottles produced, plus some large-format bottles.

The 2016 Touriga Nacional was aged for 16 to 18 months, depending on plot, in 90% new, light-toast French oak. It is sourced from two different vineyards plots, one with southern exposure and the other north-facing, averaging 35 years in vine age. The two plots were fermented separately. It comes in at 13.5% alcohol, a decline from the 2015. Overall, this seems every bit its equal, probably its superior. Tight and aromatic, this throws off big blue-fruit aromas and flavors turning to a bit of blackberry on the end. Bright, silky and very focused, this precise Touriga has superb structure, a certain sexy demeanor despite its elegance and plenty of finesse. When all is said and done, this is likely to be one of Crasto's finest Tourigas. Maybe the 2015 will overtake it. Maybe not. I'm still a little wary—this 2016 was only in bottle about 90 days when seen and is very unevolved. I'm leaning up for the moment, though, as the combination of elegance and sex appeal makes this seem very special just now. Note that this was double decanted for about six hours before being tasted. It was quite drinkable at that point, and the tannins are moderate, but that's not how it will show from a newly opened bottle. This will acquire balance and more complexity around 2023 or so. There were 7,800 bottles produced.