The 2007 Noval Silval Vintage Port has a stylish bouquet of lavender, spice box, damp earth, blueberry, and black currant that leaps from the glass. This is followed by a relatively lightweight but elegant wine that has plenty of savory fruit, moderate structure, and a precocious personality. It should be drinking at its best by 2017 and will provide pleasure through 2027. One of Oporto’s famous names, Quinta do Noval decided not to produce its flagship Nacional bottling in the 2007 vintage. The two Ports it has chosen to release are first class in their own distinctive styles. Importer: Michael Quinttus, Vintus Wines, New York; tel. (914) 769-3000; fax (914) 769-7112

On the outside this is all soft, generous round fruit. In the core, though, there is a strong acid, perfumed fruit character, which suggests aging potential. Now the two components need to come together.——R.V.(3/1/2008)—— 88