The 2000 MOSCATEL RESERVA comes in at 18% alcohol. It is pointed rather than lush, off dry rather than terribly sweet. A finish nuanced with brandy notes gives the wine a powerful and rather alcoholic feel, making it a little closer to an aperitif or digestif than a dessert wine. Don’t confuse this with the lusher and richer Spanish Moscatel sherry. Drink now-2020. This estate, with the pretty labels, is increasingly a player in the Douro. In the difficult 2006 vintage, the winery turned out pretty respectable performances.Importer: M Imports, Coppell, TX; tel: (214) 505-0616.

Moscatel is a traditional style from some of the higher elevation Douro vineyards. This fortified wine keeps all the grapey freshness of the Moscatel while bringing out toffee and smooth vanilla sweetness, the spirit showing through with spice. It is a great aperitif wine, served lightly chilled.——R.V.(4/1/2009)—— 87