The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Larkmead Vineyard is a perfect California imitation of a classified growth Pauillac. Creme de cassis, licorice, unsmoked cigar tobacco, lead pencil shavings, black currants, earth, and bay leaf characteristics, but not a hint of oak, emerge from this full-bodied, rich, velvety-textured, sumptuous wine. It should drink fabulously well upon release, and continue to evolve for two decades or more. (Not yet released)David Ramey’s Healdsburg operation is becoming bigger and bigger, as evidenced by his 60,000-case production in both 2006 and 2007. However, quality continues to be exciting, offering a broad array of Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons, and more recently, a handful of Syrahs. The entry level Chardonnays include three generic appellations, Carneros, Russian River, and Sonoma Coast. All three need to be consumed sooner rather than later. The three single vineyard Chardonnays are all from top sites, the Hudson and Hyde vineyards in Carneros, and the Russian River’s Ritchie Vineyard. Production is much smaller for these cuvees, from just under 1,400 cases for the Hudson to over 2,500 cases for the Hyde.Tel. (707) 433-0870; Fax (707) 433-0871

Although backward, the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Larkmead Vineyard (3,820 cases) is extremely promising. Its inky/ruby/purple color is followed by a gorgeous perfume of smoke herbs, graphite, creme de cassis, coffee beans, and toasty oak. With sensational fruit on the attack and mid-palate, and a finish filled with power, glycerin, depth, and impressive structure, this 2006 will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age, and should evolve for two decades or more. David Ramey’s Healdsburg operation is becoming bigger and bigger, as evidenced by his 60,000-case production in both 2006 and 2007. However, quality continues to be exciting, offering a broad array of Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons, and more recently, a handful of Syrahs. The entry level Chardonnays include three generic appellations, Carneros, Russian River, and Sonoma Coast. All three need to be consumed sooner rather than later. The three single vineyard Chardonnays are all from top sites, the Hudson and Hyde vineyards in Carneros, and the Russian River’s Ritchie Vineyard. Production is much smaller for these cuvees, from just under 1,400 cases for the Hudson to over 2,500 cases for the Hyde.Tel. (707) 433-0870; Fax (707) 433-0871

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Larkmead Vineyard (1,360 cases produced from a blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, and 9% Merlot) possesses abundant amounts of creme de cassis, graphite, cedar, roasted herbs, and spice. This is an attractive Cabernet that should drink well for 15-20 years. One of Northern California’s most successful winemakers/consultants, David Ramey’s personal winery continues to go from strength to strength. Ramey has had the best of both worlds, working in Bordeaux for the Moueix family, and in California at Dominus, Chalk Hill, and Rudd Estate. Ramey has two hierarchies of Chardonnays, his generic appellations as well as his single vineyard cuvees.Previously recommended: 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Jericho Canyon (94), 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Pedregal (95+), 2004 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard (91), 2004 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard (94), 2004 Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard (93).Tel. (707) 433-0870; fax (707) 433-0871

The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Larkmead (1,360 cases from a blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, and 9% Merlot) has that gorgeously pure creme de cassis that I notice consistently in Screaming Eagle. The wine is full-bodied, elegant, sexy and rich, and should easily last and evolve for 10-15 or more years. In fact, I would give it 2-3 years of bottle age. This is a phenomenal wine and one of the finest 2004 Cabernet Sauvignons. Tel. (707) 433-0870; fax (707) 433-0871

This may not be especially ageable because it’s so soft and forward. But for current drinking and a few years out, it rewards for a wealth of flavor and richness. The wine has the blackberry marmalade, raspberry tart, milk chocolate truffle, cappuccino and new oaky flavors that many very ripe California reds show, but its pedigree is in the tannic structure. Best now through 2010.——S.H.(7/1/2007)—— 89