The 2010 Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard covers every inch of the palate with plums, camphor, black olives and savory herbs. Despite its size, the wine possesses stunning detail and nuance in a large-scaled dramatic style that is overwhelmingly beautiful. This is a great showing. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. David Ramey is one of the few California winemakers who thinks in terms of structure, not just flavor, something that sets him apart from many of his peers. All of the wines I tasted at Ramey’s cellar just outside Healdsburg were terrific. I also sampled a number of older wines, all of which have held up very well. Best of all, most of the wines remain very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. My visit ended with the 2001 Cabernet Jericho Canyon Road, which was stunning. At age 10 it remains an infant. I only wish I owned it. The next best thing is Ramey’s new Annum bottling from 2009 forward, the vintage in which the main vineyard source switched to Shartsis, a parcel in Rutherford close to Dana Estates’s Helms vineyard. The Pedregal, from a vineyard in Oakville, is perhaps even better, but it also costs twice as much. The appellation Chardonnays spend 12 months in oak, ranging from 20-25% new, while the vineyard designates spent 18 months in oak, with a higher percentage of new barrels.Tel. (707) 433-0870, www.rameywine.com

The 2009 Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard (from barrel) caresses the palate with layers of expressive, sensual fruit. The wine is understandably quite primary and young, but nevertheless impresses for its textural elegance and shape. This needs time to come together but is immensely promising, even at this early stage. The 2009 Rodgers Creek is 92% Syrah and 8% Viognier, co-fermented. The wine spent 27 months in French oak barrels, 90% new Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. David Ramey is one of the few California winemakers who thinks in terms of structure, not just flavor, something that sets him apart from many of his peers. All of the wines I tasted at Ramey’s cellar just outside Healdsburg were terrific. I also sampled a number of older wines, all of which have held up very well. Best of all, most of the wines remain very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. My visit ended with the 2001 Cabernet Jericho Canyon Road, which was stunning. At age 10 it remains an infant. I only wish I owned it. The next best thing is Ramey’s new Annum bottling from 2009 forward, the vintage in which the main vineyard source switched to Shartsis, a parcel in Rutherford close to Dana Estates’s Helms vineyard. The Pedregal, from a vineyard in Oakville, is perhaps even better, but it also costs twice as much. The appellation Chardonnays spend 12 months in oak, ranging from 20-25% new, while the vineyard designates spent 18 months in oak, with a higher percentage of new barrels.Tel. (707) 433-0870, www.rameywine.com

The 2008 Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard explodes onto the palate with cured meats, bacon fat, smoke, tar and wild cherries. It possesses a classic, cold-climate Syrah profile wedded to the power and richness that is typical of California. This is a dazzling wine from David Ramey. The 2008 Rodgers Creek is 95% Syrah and 5% Viognier, co-fermented and aged for 27 months in French oak, 75% new. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. David Ramey is one of the few California winemakers who thinks in terms of structure, not just flavor, something that sets him apart from many of his peers. All of the wines I tasted at Ramey’s cellar just outside Healdsburg were terrific. I also sampled a number of older wines, all of which have held up very well. Best of all, most of the wines remain very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. My visit ended with the 2001 Cabernet Jericho Canyon Road, which was stunning. At age 10 it remains an infant. I only wish I owned it. The next best thing is Ramey’s new Annum bottling from 2009 forward, the vintage in which the main vineyard source switched to Shartsis, a parcel in Rutherford close to Dana Estates’s Helms vineyard. The Pedregal, from a vineyard in Oakville, is perhaps even better, but it also costs twice as much. The appellation Chardonnays spend 12 months in oak, ranging from 20-25% new, while the vineyard designates spent 18 months in oak, with a higher percentage of new barrels.Tel. (707) 433-0870, www.rameywine.com

Although they are difficult to sell, two wines not to be underestimated are Ramey’s Syrahs. Even better is the compelling 2007 Syrah Rodger’s Creek Vineyard. Absolutely sensational, it offers notes of bacon fat intermixed with roast beef, spice box, pepper, coffee, blackberry and camphor. Full-bodied, fleshy, dense and well-endowed, this is a beauty to enjoy over the next decade or more. Owner/winemaker David Ramey produces two levels of Chardonnay – his generic appellation cuvees and his single vineyard offerings from three top sites, the Hudson, Hyde and Ritchie vineyards.Tel. (707) 433-0870; Fax (707) 433-0871