Recaredo Brut de Brut Gran Reserva Brut Nature, Penedes, Spain

雷卡里多特級(jí)珍藏干型自然起泡酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2104

The 2007 Brut de Brut Gran Reserva Brut Nature is sourced from a single vineyard, the Finca Serral del Vell, which appears on the label since 2006. It was approximately equal parts of Xarello and Macabeo. 2007, contrary to what happened in many other regions throughout Spain, was a warmer and drier year than 2006, and the wines are generally riper. I found more developed balsamic aromas, notes of camphor and bay leaf, but it might be because the bottle I tasted was disgorged after 96 months in bottle. However it was amazingly fresh, no doubt because of the low pH (3.06). 50,000 bottles produced.

The 2006 Brut de Brut Gran Reserva Brut Nature is, since 2006, sourced from a single vineyard, the Finca Serral del Vell, which now appears on the label. This vintage was a blend of 53% Xarello and 47% Macabeo aged in bottle with the lees for 89 months (7 years and 5 months), a very long period for this price level. Each bottle is disgorged at different times, and all the back labels specify the date of disgorgement and the number of months on lees. In this case, the minimum was when the first bottles were disgorged, after 87 months. The long aging obviously provides plenty of yeast and bread dough aromas which live with the citric freshness (I thought 2006 was very warm, but the wine doesn't show it). The palate is compact with well-integrated bubbles and lively, intense acidity to make it able to develop in bottle for a good five years.

The 2005 Brut de Brut Gran Reserva Brut Nature, a blend of 55% Xarello and 45% Macabeo, aged for 88 months in bottle, might be just going through a difficult phase, and does not say much. You need to pull it to get shy aromas of spices, yeasts and toasty bread intermixed with some notes of apples and fennel. It also feels quite compact in the palate with very small, well-integrated bubbles and a thin, persistent acid spine. Drink now-2017. Recaredo is a very old Cava house, as they have been grape growers and wine producers since 1924, but they have come to the forefront of the quality leaders recently. They have worked very hard for that, especially when it comes to work in the vineyards and respect for nature and tradition. They only use grapes from their own vineyards in the Alt Penedes zone, which are worked organically and biodynamically (Demeter certified). All grapes are hand-harvested and vinified by them and the wines are aged sur lie with cork stoppers. They are disgorged by hand without resorting to freezing the neck after no less than 30 months in contact with the lees and regular hand turning of the bottles. No liqueur de expedition is added to any of the wines, they are all Brut Nature. All wines are produced from a single vintage. I’m not sure if there is any other sparkling wine producer in the world who works with such strict standards, but what is most impressive is that all that is certified for the wines produced in the last ten years! Congratulations to the Mata family and to winemaker Ton Mata for such achievement. There is a sense of energy and harmony in their wines that is impressive; they are all highly recommended. Prices for the top-bottling can be steep, but the regular Brut Nature is a bargain. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Maspeth, NY; tel. (518) 207-9100, www.madrose.com

The 2004 Brut de Brut Gran Reserva Brut Nature is a blend of 67% Macabeu and 33% Xarello from three vineyards on calcareous soils (Can Romeu, Can Rossell and Pedra Blanca). The first fermentation is done in oak casks and was bottled in spring 2005, remaining for 79 months on its lees before disgorgement on December 15, 2011. It offers a very precise bouquet that unfurls in the glass to reveal tantalizing hints of white truffle and a touch of rosemary. The palate is very precise and beautifully balanced with subtle white peach and quince notes, this Cava struck through with razor-sharp acidity that leads to the wild honey-tinged finish. There is a sense of completeness to this outstanding Cava that is well worth the price when you consider the price of Champagne. Drink now-2016+ The two Cavas from Recaredo were tasted as part of a long line-up. They stood out from the rest, and alongside Gramona, one could argue that they represent the “First Growths” of Cava. It was like being elevated to a higher level of complexity, a thrilling example of tense, mineral-rich Cava that has a distinct Champagne-like personality. The estate was founded back in 1878, but it was not until 1924 that they began specializing in sparkling wine. It was Josep Mata Capellades that honed the craft of drier styles of Cava, using oak barrels and engendering long-living wines. They own 50 hectares of vineyard, use their own natural yeasts and, like Gramona, use natural cork to bottle their wine after triage. I was only able to taste two of their wines in Spain, but intend to taste more in the future. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2003 Brut de Brut Gran Reserva Brut Nature is made up of 64% Macabeu and 36% Xarel-lo aged on lees for 67 months. The Xarel-lo grapes were fermented in oak and the wine was finished with no dosage. It displays a bit more richness than the preceding wines, perhaps because of the oak treatment. Aromas of mineral, toast, almonds, and white fruits inform the nose of this superb effort. In the glass it is remarkably concentrated, vibrant, and refreshing. Recaredo’s Cavas have demonstrated an ability to evolve, so another 2-3 years of cellaring is likely to provide dividends. Recaredo Mata Casanovas is on my (very) short list of finest Cava producers in the DO. All of the fruit is sourced from estate vineyards in the Alt Penedes region, is Demeter-certified biodynamic in its farming practices (since 2009), aged in the cellars with natural cork stoppers, bottles are turned by hand in traditional racks, and are disgorged by hand without freezing. The vintage, months of aging, and date of disgorging are shown on all bottles. The Bodega’s stated reference points for their Cavas are Salon, Selosse, and Paul Bara. As an aside, I was shown three older vintages (1996, 1991, and 1984) disgorged in my presence during my visit. They were fully alive and vibrant, developing in the manner of the grandes marques of Champagne. These tasting notes are from my visit to Cava Recaredo in January 2011. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, The Mad Rose Group, www.madrose.com