Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Mosel, Germany

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Vanilla laced cider dominates the character of Kesselstatt’s 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Grosses Gewachs, with a chewy sense of apple skin as well as saline notes conveying invigoration even as a sense of underlying creaminess is simultaneously conveyed. Toasted nuts and the bitter side of the vanilla bean in the finish convey an austere finishing impression. Like all of the Kesselstatt Grosse Gewachse, this was not bottled until late August, and I last tasted it only three weeks later. Especially in this instance, I would allow for the possibility that in the short run in bottle a more generous and less bitter turn might have been taken. I suspect though that this will be best served within the next 3-5 years. Annegret Reh’s 2008s display their acids somewhat more prominently than did her 2007s. While for the second year running neither alcoholic heat nor roughness were an impediment to her penchant for dry Grosse Gewachse, this did not mean that the trocken end of the spectrum here was always that ideally-balanced, as there was not only tartness but considerable bitterness to deal with as well. This enormous estate has made great strides, but I think that stylistically they could be more sensitive to the message of their terrific vineyards, at least to the extent that their customer base allows (since the Germans demand of them trocken). In my view, Reh’s move toward more flexibility with and a wider range of residual sugar in the off-dry half of the Kesselstatt portfolio, especially Kabinett, is an excellent step in that direction, but “Grosse Gewachse” of 10-15 grams residual sugar would be an even better one! Incidentally, machine harvesters (first used here, as at many top-notch German estates, in the hectic 2006 vintage) were employed this year in some of the more accessible and less distinguished sites in order to buy time for the entire crop to hang longer, although even so, picking began in mid-October, and concluded November 8.Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424

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