Picked late in October and relatively botrytis-free, the Haarts’ 2010 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese exhibits considerable yeasty-cheesy, post-fermentative aromatics, but behind that are fusil and crushed stone notes allied to apple, pineapple, grapefruit, and red currant, a quartet that then performs with admirable brightness and juicy generosity on a buoyant, glycerin-slicked, saliva-inducingly saline palate. There is a crystalline sense of clarity and further mineral impingement in this wine’s long finish. The nose will clear up with time – perhaps already has – speaking of which, this can be expected to deliver invigorating and fascinating delight over at least the next quarter century.
Theo and Johannes Haart commenced harvesting already in mid-October, no later than they had last year, and were finished by month’s end. Their diversity of sites permitted a significant amount of genuine Kabinett to be picked as well as concentrated high must-weight and ennobled bottlings. De-acidification was performed with double-salt on the must, generally affecting only certain lots of an eventual cuvee. Many 2010 collections displayed – as their wines’ levels of Oechsle climbed into the stratosphere – a falling-away, if not of ultimate quality, then certainly of my confidence in it; but in the present instance, that happened only after some impressive successes had been racked up along the way. With a couple of exceptions that were entirely botrytis-free and fermented rapidly, most of this year’s collection was bottled in July and August, significantly later than usual. Incidentally, both the Haarts and Andreas Adam report that wild boar – an increasing problem throughout the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer – have reached such destructive proportions in Piesport that there is talk of trying to erect a huge fence around the entirety of this famous village’s prime acreage.”
Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596- 9463
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