A faintly dusty, smoky note hangs over the scents of sweetly ripe, brown-spiced cherry and strawberry in Alexana’s 2010 Pinot Noir Revana Vineyard Signature, a bottling representing a selection of the best lots on the winery’s estate vineyard. Along with continued smoky pungency, a saliva-inducing saline streak runs through this plush, forwardly fruity Pinot, adding both variety and next-sip inducement to its protracted finish. This should drink well for at least 4-6 years. I tasted the formidably priced recent releases of Dr. Madaiah Revana’s six-year-old, Dundee Hills Alexana project (named for his daughter, and with its 56 acres of vines located on Warden Hill) in the company of Lynn Penner-Ash, who has been overseeing vinification at her facility. (The Revana Family Vineyard in Napa relied until last year on a similar collaboration with Heidi Peterson Barrett.) For the impending harvest, this estate will operate out of its own new facility and Penner-Ash says her involvement will become “l(fā)ess hands-on.”Tel. (503) 554-5545

Light and bright, delivering a jazzy mouthful of currant and raspberry fruit, balanced with a bite of limelike acidity, lingering effortlessly. Drink now through 2015. 254 cases made.??–HS??Region: Oregon / Willamette Valley Select to Add

The 2009 Pinot Noir Signature was also sourced entirely from the Revana Vineyard. It spent 9 months in 37% new French oak and is a more substantial offering. Notes of sandalwood, Asian spices, incense, rose petal, cherry, and raspberry inform the nose of a plush, easy-going, easy-to-understand wine with moderate depth and concentration. However, it lacks the firm acid structure that would have better framed the succulent flavors. Drink it over the next 6-7 years. Dr. Madaiah Revana, the proprietor of Alexana Winery, employs veteran vigneron Lynn Penner-Ash as his winemaker.Tel. (503) 852-3013; www.alexanawines.com

Light and fragrant, brimming with cherry, raspberry, orange peel and spice aromas and flavors. An elegant wine that remains supple and inviting as the finish sails on and on. Drink now through 2018. 180 cases made.??–HS??Region: Oregon / Willamette Valley Select to Add

The 2008 Pinot Noir Signature is a selection of the top 6 barrels from the Revana Estate Vineyard aged for 9 months in 35% new oak. It displays a similar aromatic and flavor profile to the Dundee Hills cuvee but with greater volume and intensity of fruit, more structure, and additional aging potential. This impeccably balanced offering will benefit from another 3-4 years of cellaring and have a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2023. Dr. Madaiah Revana, the proprietor of Alexana Winery, employs veteran vigneron Lynn Penner-Ash as his winemaker.www.alexanawines.com