From vines planted during prohibition, the 2017 Zinfandel Benito Dusi Ranch has a medium ruby color and very sexy nose of gravel dust, lilac and peach preserves with notes of cocoa powder, licorice, dusty earth, dried leaves with dried red cherries and raspberry preserves with an exotic spice undercurrent. The palate is medium-bodied and full of ripe fruits and spices, framed by slightly chalky tannins and juicy acidity, finishing long and layered.

Smells and tastes overripe and Porty, with sweet raisin and chocolate flavors, and bitter tannins. Doesn’t have the balance to develop, so drink now. ——S.H.(12/1/2009)—— 83