It was a pleasant surprise to note how accurately this wine reflected its varietal origin. It is a cleanly made, soft, exuberant, fruit-driven wine to be drunk as an aperitif, or with light fish and poultry dishes over the next 12-18 months.Tel. (707) 944-2807

Arneis is an indigenous grape of Piedmont, and one of the finest examples of a wine made from this varietal is that of Bruno Giacosa (I recommended his 1996 several issues ago). Pepi's 1996 Arneis is a light-bodied, nicely perfumed wine with good fruit, and a dry finish. While it does not possess much character, it offers a refreshing nut and fruit personality allied with zesty crispness. It will be more attractive to drink with food than on its own merits. However, it needs to be consumed over the next year.Robert Pepi is emerging as one of the leaders of the Etruscan gang of California winemakers seeking to turn out wines from grapes primarily associated with Italy. However, Pepi has other offerings as well.Tel. (707) 944-2807; Fax (707) 944-5628