The 2009 Recioto di Soave La Broia is a magnificent wine that opens to a brilliant, golden color and succulent sweetness with undertones of peach, tangerine skin, almond paste, honey and fragrant white flower. The wine is made with 100% Garganega that has been aged in neutral oak for 18 months. Its silky texture and irresistible sweetness make it a perfect companion to custard or creme brulee. Drink 2014-2020. Of the “modernist” school in Valpolicella, Roccolo Grassi delivers some of the most distinctive red, white and dessert wines in northern Italy. Importer: Artisan Wines Inc., www.artisanwinesinc.com

The 2008 Recioto di Soave La Broia emerges from the glass with burnt sugar, creme brulee, cinnamon, spices and orange peel in a burnished, voluptuous style that is quite appealing. Layers of fruit build to the effortless, plush finish. This is a hugely delicious and inviting sweet wine from Roccolo Grassi. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Proprietor Marco Sartori embodies all of the best qualities of Valpolicella's top artisan growers. A meticulous focus on quality means that the top wines - the Amarone and Reciotos - are only produced in the very best vintages. Sartori favors a relatively laid-back style for his Amarone. The grapes are pressed on the first day allowed by regulations, with a goal of keeping residual sugar in the 5.5-8.0-grams per liter range. Over the last few vintages Sartori has begun giving his wines 24-26 months in oak, 6 months less than before, and more time in bottle, again with the goal of maintaining as much freshness as possible. All of the new releases are highly recommended, but the 2008 Valpolicella is the under-the-radar gem in this lineup. Importers: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552

The 2004 Recioto di Soave Vigneto La Broia is a joy to taste. Honey, acacia, dried pears, roasted nuts, spices and candied orange peel are some of the aromas and flavors that emerge from this beautifully delineated, harmonious sweet wine. Despite the wine's richness there is no heaviness at all, just pure class and elegance. This medium-bodied Recioto di Soave would make a great match for all but the strongest and most-aged cheeses. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. This set of wines from Roccolo Grassi was one of the strongest I tasted this year in Veneto. Proprietor Marco Sartori is on a roll. Readers should do whatever they can to get their hands on these gorgeous wines. The house style favors elegance and detail over sheer power, qualities these offerings all have in spades. No known importer.

The 2003 Recioto di Soave Vigneto La Broia is a compelling dessert wine. Full-bodied, unctuous and ample on the palate, it reveals dried apricots, figs, honey and roasted nuts with plenty of style and enough body to stand up to all but the most robust cheeses. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018. Marco Sartori is the young, ambitious proprietor at Roccolo Grassi. Unlike many of his colleagues, Sartori leaves the fruit for his Amarone to dry for a shorter time as he believes this approach allows him to achieve concentration in the vineyard while allowing the wines to remain fresh in the bottle. The Soave and Valpolicella are made from the estate’s younger plants while the oldest vines are used for the Amarone and the Reciotos. Sartori prefers to age his wines predominantly in French oak. This is a beautiful set of wines from one of Veneto’s most promising young producers. Importer: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552