Extraordinarily fine for its smoothness and finesse, and the way the wine glides over the palate with a yeasty creaminess that turns smoky and spicy on the finish. The dosage stands out, yet this bubbly is also very acidic now. It should age well for at least 10 years. ——S.H.(6/1/2005)—— 94

Among the top sparklers in California, the wine this year is even more smooth and polished. It’s positively French in its classic structure and elegance. Feels ultra-refined in the mouth, with subtle flavors of dough, smoke and fruit. ——S.H.(12/31/2004)—— 93

This half-and-half blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is often referred to as California’s best. This year, it’s very dry, with nuanced flavors of citrus, peach and yeast. But it feels a little rough on the palate. This youthful scour should soften in a few years. ——S.H.(12/1/2002)—— 90

A great sparkling wine, one of the best from California, it has the classic structure, harmony and finesse of all but the best Champagnes. Light as a feather, this brut has delicate flavors and is very dry. Its youthful vigor suggests aging until 2003. ——S.H.(12/15/2001)—— 93

Toasty and creamy, with just a touch of earthy mustiness on the nose; this is like a star just starting to do an elegant fade. There’s tangy fruit with a touch of oxidized maturity, a full texture, but a very faint bead. Good elements abound here and the wine still displays class, but it seems like it might have been brighter before——W.E.(12/31/2000)—— 88