What is California’s best sparkling winery and wine? I vote for Roederer Estate and its prestige cuvee, L’Ermitage. When all of the Champagne houses were buying land in Napa to establish California outposts, Champagne Louis Roederer settled in cool Mendocino County. With its toasty, hazelnut flavors, L’Ermitage is closest of all the American sparklers to Champagne.——E.M.(11/15/1999)—— 92