Made by 30-ish Roberta Borghese high above Manzano, which also happens to be the chair manufacturing capital of Italy, this is a perfect example of how good Tocai can be. The aromas are honey and grapefruit-orange. After an intro of crisp acidity, the same flavors appear and persist on the medium body. Match this one with a good seafood risotto. ——M.N.(12/31/2000)—— 91