This is a special wine, clearly mountainous in origin. The fruit is condensed and intense. It could not be riper and still be dry and balanced. Flavors range from blackberries to chocolate. It’s drinkable now, if big tannins don’t bother you. Best with well-marbled beef, or with chocolatey desserts. —S.H. ——S.H.(3/1/2003)—— 91