The 1998 Zinfandel Cullinane Vineyard is potentially outstanding. An opaque purple color is accompanied by a medium to full-bodied wine displaying aromas of melted road tar and leather, heady, high alcohol and evidence of ripe fruit. This full-throttle, chewy Zinfandel with late harvest characteristics is reminiscent of an Italian Amarone. Enjoy this dense, mouthfilling Zinfandel over the next 6-8 years. Tel. (510) 865-7007

The 1997 Zinfandel Cullinane Vineyard is a deep colored wine. It reveals ripe black cherry fruit intermixed with obvious toasty new oak. It is a dense, medium to full-bodied, powerful wine with very good ripeness and richness, and attractive rather than intrusive acid levels. It should drink well for 4-5 years. Tel. (510) 865-7007

The 1995 Zinfandel Cullinane Vineyard (14.8% alcohol) is one of the more powerful wines in the Rosenblum portfolio. It possesses an evolved dark ruby/garnet color, gorgeously sweet, rich, black-cherry and strawberry fruit in the nose, and an opulently-textured, pure, fleshy mouthfeel. Although powerful, the alcohol is well-concealed behind the wine's abundant richness and layered fruit. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Dr. Rosenblum, one of California's most noteworthy practitioners of Zinfandel winemaking, has once again turned out a bevy of fine wines. There seems to be less difference between the individual Zinfandels than in recent years, but certainly the overall level of quality, with the exception of the Richard Sauret Vineyard offering, is reassuringly high.Tel. (510) 865-7007

The 1985 Zinfandel-Cullivan Vineyard is extremely earthy and herbal, as well as a bit simple, with some astringent tannins in the finish. I suspect the fruit is beginning to dry out. I have generally admired Rosenblum's Zinfandels when drunk in their first 5-6 years of life, an observation that was partially confirmed by the tasting of this 1985.