The ever reliable Kent Rosenblum continues to turn out a portfolio of delicious Zinfandels. Along with Napa’s Biale family and a short list of other North Coast producers, Rosenblum Cellars is as good as it gets when it comes to Zinfandel. Petite Sirah may be California’s most underrated wine, especially when it comes to aging potential. It will never possess the complexity of a top Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon, but it can age effortlessly for two decades or more. I still have some Petite Sirahs from the early seventies in my cellar, and they remain delicious wines.Tel. (510) 865-7007

Tastes like an old-fashioned field blend. On the plus side is a wealth of fruit, berry and spice flavors (there’s some Carignane and Petite Sirah here), with bigtime but soft tannins that make the wine glide down smooth. On the other hand is a rustic nature and slight sweetness.——S.H.(2/1/2007)—— 84