A fascinating Pinot that showcases the evolution of the varietal in this cool-climate growing region. The fruit isn’t quite ripe, with tomato, cola and rhubarb flavors, although oak does its best to fatten and sweeten. The wine is totally dry and rather tart. It’s also dense and full-bodied, with the weight of Merlot.——S.H.(3/1/2005)—— 89

Full—almost pulpy, one taster noted—with aromas of dark ripe cherries, chocolate, spice and cedar, this weighty, cedary Pinot has a tobacco-tinged, rustic quality. It’s big and a bit one-dimensional, and finishing with plenty of oak and just a touch of heat. ——W.E.(10/1/2002)—— 84