The 2010 Ceppitaio Val di Cornia is a gorgeous entry-level red laced with sweet red cherries, spices and flowers, all of which come together in a medium-bodied wine that shows unusual grace for this part of Maremma. Floral notes add freshness on the finish. The 2010 is 55% Sangiovese and 45% Ciliegiolo, Colorino Canaiolo, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. These are the finest wines I have ever tasted from Russo. Consulting oenologist Marinka Polencic spent three years working alongside Alberto Antonini. She is now taking Russo to even greater heights. Importer: Superior Wines LLC, Cranford, NJ; tel. (908) 276-8826

The 2002 Ceppitaio, the regular bottling of the house, indicates in its freshness, forthright fruit, and softness that the Suvereto area did particularly well in the trying 2002 vintage. No known American importer.