Tart green plum and a hint of gooseberry are suffused with mouthwatering salinity and crushed stone in the Undhof 2010 Riesling Pfaffenberg, an undertone of roasted root vegetables on its medium-bodied, polished palate calling to mind Gruner Veltliner, and leading to a satisfyingly prolonged finish, albeit one lacking the clarity, intrigue, or mineral interactivity of the corresponding Kogl. Berthold Salomon suffered dramatic 2010 crop-losses with Riesling, but only a small diminution of Gruner Veltliner, “and for me,” he adds, “this is definitely a Gruner Veltliner year.” Between selective de-acidification of musts and allowing some lots to undergo malo-lactic transformation, the high acids of the vintage managed to be quite well-tamed at this address. (Details on some of this estate’s large acreage can be found scattered throughout my previous reports.)Various importers, including Fruit of the Vines Inc, Long Island City, NY; tel. (718) 392 5640, Artisan Growers & Producers, San Francisco CA; tel. (415) 264 4866, and Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MI; tel. (314) 961 8996

Rich Riesling, very perfumed, with flavors of yellow creamed fruits over a steely core giving structure. It has weight, the ripe fruit powering through the edgy final texture. A wine for aging. ——R.V.(3/1/2011)—— 91

From the steeply terraced Pfaffenberg vineyard, this is a deliciously fresh, crisp wine. It has tangerine, citrus flavors and just a touch of dry honey. The texture rolls magnificently between rich and very tense. There is strong minerality here, with a tight tannic structure. Screwcap.——R.V.(5/1/2009)—— 90