The SassodiSole 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is full, generous and broad in texture. Compared to the other two wines made by this estate in 2017 (the two annata wines that are also reviewed here), this wine is leaps and bounds ahead in terms of its aromatic intensity and texture. It ends with savory tones of smoke, baked fruit, black cherry, earth and dried rose. If you are going to buy one of these wines, this is your bottle. 4,666 bottles were made.

The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (with only 1,333 bottles produced) is a hearty and powerful wine to pair with grilled steak or barbecued meat. The wine presents a dense and robust quality of fruit with plumy dark intensity, dried cherry, smoke, tobacco and moist potting soil. The mouthfeel is fueled by polished tannins, moderate length and a mid-weight approach.

This wine represents a departure from many of its peers. The Sassodisole 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is largely void of those jammy characteristics that you get in many 2012 Brunello Riservas. There is fruity ripeness for sure (this was indeed a hot vintage for Montalcino standards) but it is contained. This is a big plus in terms of pulling out the more ethereal and delicate notes that Sangiovese is known for. Tar, licorice and scorched earth appear instead. That said, this is a near-term wine with a round and supple mouthfeel that makes it approachable now.

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva offers both elegance and power, and this balance of opposites is the wine's most important feature. You get dried berry aromas with licorice, tar and leather. Dried flowers and wild mushroom also add to the wine's lingering complexity. In the mouth, this Brunello delivers bold richness and tight textural consistency. Only 2,300 bottles are made.

SassodiSole pulls its winemaking prowess seamlessly together with the 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. Although its drinking window may not be as wide as other wines from this classic vintage, this specific wine is already starting to come into its prime. Its appearance is dark and austere and there’s plenty of ripe fruit and dried spice to keep your attention. The wine also shows a pretty evolution in the glass, spanning from dried cherry to root beer to black licorice. Don’t wait too long to enjoy this upfront wine. Drink: 2015-2020. SassodiSole is a 45-hectare estate located in the less-explored Torrenieri quadrant of the appellation in the far northeast corner. Vineyards are planted between 280 and 320 meters above sea level with south-facing exposures and limestone soils. It is farmed by Roberto Terzuoli and his family. Importer: Gullawine, www.gullawine.com