This delicate wine has flavors of cherries, Chinese tea and tobacco. It is dry and acidic; the tannins assert themselves immediately, especially on the finish where they turn tough and sticky. It is not an opulent wine but it’s a complex, layered one, dry and tart. Will probably be at its best with food such as roast duck with a cherry sauce, or Chinese barbecued pork.——S.H.(4/1/2004)—— 89