The 2007 Pinot Noir East Hill is more deeply colored, has greater density and more structure than the Estate cuvee. Fragrant aromas of balsam wood, violets, mineral, and assorted black fruits lead to a medium to full-bodied wine with outstanding depth and concentration. It will benefit from 3-4 years of cellaring (unusually long for this vintage) and drink well from 2012 to 2022. Dick Shea has 22 clients for the fruit he grows at his large Yamhill-Carlton estate, most of whom vineyard designate the resulting wine. More often than not, it is the best wine in their respective portfolios. Tel. (503) 241-6527; www.sheawinecellars.com

The 2006 Pinot Noir East Hill has darker fruits, more density, serious depth and several years of aging potential. Savory, layered, and sweet, it will drink well from 2010 to 2018. The Shea Vineyard is probably the most famous terroir in Oregon and the list of clients who purchase fruit composes a Who’s Who of Willamette Valley wineries and a couple from California as well. It is a large vineyard with numerous micro-terroirs. Furthermore, Dick Shea farms each plot according to the desires of the client so that it’s probably not fair to make direct comparisons among the various Pinot Noirs made from Shea fruit. That is probably a good thing because Dick Shea has raised the bar significantly with the wines he has been making from his own vineyard. Tel. (503) 241-6527; www.sheawinecellars.com