Made from 74% Sauvignon Blanc and 26% Semillon, the 1994 Sendal, a white Graves-look-alike, exhibits crisp, citrusy, honeyed, floral-scented aromas with a whiff of subtle oak. Medium-bodied, with gobs of fruit, yet restrained, elegant, and complex, this stylish, well-made, dry white wine should drink well for 1-3 years. Tel. (707) 433-6981

This winery has over 100 acres planted in the Russian River Valley, and another 170 acres in the Alexander Valley. With the assistance of the well-known French oenologist, Michel Rolland, Simi and its New Zealand-born winemaker, Nick Goldschmidt, are producing high quality California wines. The emphasis in Simi's non-reserve program is on capturing the varietal's vibrant fruit in as exuberant manner as possible. The Reserve offerings see more oak, and are designed to be more ambitious, fuller-bodied, richer wines.A more serious and ambitious Sauvignon Blanc cuvee is Simi's proprietary white wine called Sendal. As much as 25% Semillon may be blended in this wine, which displays a strong aromatic and textural resemblance to a top-notch white Graves. The wine is aged in 78% new oak and is meant to be a complex, richer, alternative to straight Sauvignon. It also costs more. The 1993 Sendal possesses an attractive vanillin, spicy, tobacco-scented nose with citrusy, melony, honeyed fruit. This medium-bodied, crisp, precise, dry white wine will offer excellent drinking over the next several years. Tel. (707) 433-6981; Fax (707) 433-6253

Simi's proprietary white wine, the 1992 Sendal, which is made in the style of a full-bodied white Graves - barrel fermented with plenty of new oak and "sur-lies" aging - is an unqualified success. The wine's light straw color merely hints at what follows - a rich, creamy texture and a wonderfully honeyed melon/herb nose intertwined with scents of vanilla and spice. Concentrated, with adequate acidity for delineation, this wine could easily be mistaken for a top-notch white Graves. Although it is likely to be short-lived (2-4 years), it is a gorgeously made, sumptuous Sauvignon/Semillon blend that should drink well for 1-3 years. Tel. (707) 433-6981

Simi's 1990 Senbal displays a French Graves-like melony, rich, discreet nose, medium-bodied, lovely flavors, and an authoritative, fruity, dry finish. Impressive!