2005 The Naked Truth: Manfred Krankl’s obvious love for his wife Elaine seems very apparent with the 2003, followed by the 2004 Ode to E, and here again, a sketch of his wife unclothed (sorry, back view only) appears on the label of the 2005. (I only know it’s his wife because I asked him!) A blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah (any Mourvedre added to the Grenache is now a thing of the past), this wine, made totally from the 11 Confessions Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills, is young, yet like all the SQN wines, approachable in its glorious display of fruit, purity and freshness. Dense purple, and offering up notes of cranberries, pepper, boysenberries, raspberries and cherries, a cornucopia of red and black fruits emerge from the aromatics, gently dosed with some spicy oak and Provencal herbs. Full-bodied, gutsy and fleshy, with loads of glycerin, a heady mouthfeel and a long finish, this wine has beautiful freshness and delineation, and should continue to drink well for 10-12+ more years. How did this label get past the puritanical bureaucrats at BATF? The conclusions I came to about this tasting may seem obvious just by reading the tasting notes. People forget that as famous as Sine Qua Non and both Elaine and Manfred Krankl have become over the last 15 years, their wines really only began to hit full world-class qualitative levels at the turn of the last century (2000). The vineyard sources have largely changed from Alban, Stolpman, Bien Nacido, Shadow Canyon and White Hawk Vineyards to primarily estate vineyards Cumulus Vineyard in Ventura County and 11 Confessions Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills. In the future, Krankl’s newest vineyard in Alisos Canyon will be an additional component part. His meticulous craftsmanship and phenomenal attention to detail, both in the vineyard and in the winery, have been increasingly noticeable over the last decade. He seemed to hit full stride about eight or nine years ago, and what has unfolded since then is an absolutely brilliant succession of true works of genius, both in his expressive, sometimes slightly abstract artwork on the labels, to the meticulously crafted wood boxes in which the wines are housed. Of course, the most important thing of all, the actual wine itself, is both the beginning as well as the end for consumers, and where 100% of my focus and judgement are centered. Grenache, as Krankl would be the first to say, is by far the most challenging grape varietal to make majestic wine from, and unequaled in difficulty by any other grape in the world except Nebbiolo. That’s why we see so little of it from great terroirs. High quality Grenache exists in northern Spain, southern France, parts of southern Italy and Sardinia, and in southern Australia, but rarely in California. This makes Krankl’s achievement all the more remarkable. Regarding the article’s title, “Wasted” – I was so elated (by their quality) as well as depressed (because I couldn’t drink all of these elixirs) that it seemed as if too much wine had been “wasted.” On a light-hearted note, my condition once I finished the academic part of the tasting could have been described as “wasted” by those who still hold to the notion that alcohol is the demon drink.Production ranges from 250-300 cases for the long barrel-aged Grenache to nearly 1,000 cases for the earlier released Grenache. Prices are in the $150-250 range from the winery. Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314
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