The wines of Sobrero in Castiglione Falletto have not been reviewed in several years. The 2015 Barolo Riserva Pernanno shows dark fruit, tarry smoke and gardening soil. Thanks to its age, the wine has already pivoted to silky tannins and a long finish. This wine shows the added richness and concentration that is typical of old-vine fruit. In fact, these plants are pushing upwards of an impressive 75 years in age. They thrive at a cool 350 meters in elevation on loose, sandy soils. Fermentation is 55 days, and aging occurs over 36 months in large botte and cement tank. A mere 2,915 bottles of this Riserva were rolled out.

Here’s an evolved and sophisticated Barolo Riserva with savory aromas of crushed black pepper, balsam, humus, old spice, licorice and root beer. The wine is drying and streamlined in the mouth, and the long finish is accented by lively fruit flavors. ——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 92