The 2007 Mate (Brachetto) is a quirky wine, but it is drop-dead stunning. An exotic array of strawberry jam, spices, sweet amaro medicinal herbs and pink peppercorns emerge from this medium-bodied yet intense wine. The wine is best served slightly chilled and is an ideal match to fine salumi and prosciutti. It is a gem. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. I can’t think of too many properties that have made such huge strides in quality as Sottimano has. Recent bottles of the 2001 and 2004 Barbaresco Pajore revealed an enormous leap in elegance and finesse. Fortunately, Sottimano’s entry-level wines are every bit as delicious as their Barbarescos, so readers won’t need to mortgage the house to drink great wines from this producer. I know I am starting to sound like a broken record, but these are truly exceptional wines at this level, or any level for that matter.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411