This estate consistently produces fine Chardonnays, and their two new offerings include a Burgundian-like, complex, leesy, full-bodied 1996 Chardonnay Winemaker's Reserve. The wine was still tight and unevolved when I tasted it in October. The fruit comes from the renowned Rochioli Vineyard in Russian River, and the wine has been given both barrel fermentation and lees stirring. It offers a honeyed lemon, smoky-scented nose, rich, fleshy, muscular flavors, and an excellent to outstanding finish. It should open with another 4-6 months of bottle age and last for 2 years.These are underrated, high quality wines that merit considerable attention.Tel. (707) 433-8281; Fax (707) 433-5174

Chateau Souverain's 1993 Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard Reserve is a spectacular Chardonnay! No matter how many times I tasted it, it reminded me of a big, rich, Batard-Montrachet from Michel Niellon or Louis Latour. Extremely rich and full-bodied, as well as fresh and lively with beautifully integrated acidity, and a stunning perfume of oranges, honey, butter, and subtle oak, this full-bodied, opulently styled wine is never heavy or tiring to drink given its well-integrated, crisp acidity. This is a dazzling effort from Chateau Souverain. Run, don't walk, to your specialty wine merchant to latch onto as many bottles as you can manage! Drink it over the next 2-3 years. An awesome value! Tel. (707) 433-8281