A good, brisk, dry wine that’s somewhat tough and resistant now, but seems to have the stuffing for the cellar. The tannins are strong and make for a sandpapery mouthfeel. But the core of blackberries, black cherries, cherry liqueur and cedar is very intense. You want to give this fresh young wine a good six years in the cellar. ——S.H.(4/1/2011)—— 89