The 2004 Riesling Kogl smells of black fruits, quarry dust and lemon zest. Those who love to lick stones will find this loaded (whether literally or metaphorically) with traces of the gneiss and schist that make up Kogl, but there is plenty of persistent berry and citrus character as well. Here in clear and concentrated form is an example of what Riesling on Krems’s volcanic terraces is all about. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700