Following a Riesling Steinterrassen richly ripe but at the same plagued with roughness and bitterness of botrytis, the 2006 Riesling Grillenparz – despite having not been harvested until mid-November – manages to retain satisfying primary fruit juiciness. Aromas of flowers and crushed stone join yellow plum and peach on the palate, and the finish – while introducing bitter fruit pit and slightly austere wet stone components – is nonetheless satisfying.Fritz Miesbauer waited patiently and harvested well into November to achieve ripeness. The results were mixed, but the successes more than uphold this estate’s growing reputation for good value. Miesbauer is now also responsible for the wines of the Gottweig monastery whose vinification and packaging have undergone a major overhaul. The early results are promising, if not yet comparable to those at Stadt KremsImporter: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700 These wines are also imported by Vin Divino

Picked late in November, the 2005 Riesling Grillenparz offers superb concentration and clarity, more than vindicating Miesbauer’s harvest strategy. Creamy texture, densely chalky minerality, and juicy fresh melon, white peach, and grapefruit come together in perfect proportions on the palate. Subtle notes of flowers and sea spray wreath the proceedings. This wine represents a qualitative breakthrough for the Weingut Stadt Krems, and bear in mind that when their terrace reconstruction and planting are completed, the Grillenparz will become their largest and flagship vineyard.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700