Elegant Pinotage, smooth but not heavy, classily oaked and rather Pinot Noir-like—of course, that’s 50% of its lineage. This is an appealingly tasty, if overtly woody, example. There’s very good fruit here; in time I think the elements will resolve positively. Impressive structure too, with back-end tannins to lose. Time will surely tell. Enticing now, best 2006–2010. ——M.M.(7/1/2004)—— 88