Ratcheting up the level of quality significantly is the 2004 Chardonnay Block 66, a 281-case lot revealing considerable minerality and structure. Notions of peaches, honeysuckle, and pineapple are followed by a medium-bodied, elegant, crisp, stony style. It could pass for a California version of a grand cru Chablis. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (800) 355-8008; Fax (707) 433-9469

The 2000 Chardonnay Block 66, which comes from the old Gauer Ranch, is beginning to show its age. While still intact with plenty of buttery popcorn, tropical fruit, and sweet citrus, it requires consumption over the next 12 months. Tel. (800) 355-8008; Fax (707) 433-9469

Less fruity, more minerally, it’s more restrained than the Upper Barn, with melon and citrus playing supporting roles before toasty oak comes on in a rush at the finish.——W.E.(9/1/2003)—— 88

This Chardonnay, from a small vineyard block in Jess Jackson’s Alexander Mountain estate, is grand yet graceful. Oozing pear, butterscotch, melon and menthol flavors, it shows good weight and a positive richness that’s supported by firm structure. It’s balanced, appealing, admirably not overoaked and finishes long with flavors of melon, spice and pear offset by toasty accents. Top Value.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 90