Pretty much as good as any Cabernet out there, if not better, and at a fraction of the price you’ll pay for the “cults.” If there was ever a wine made for the cellar, it’s this one, the antidote for those who consider California Cabernet a simple fruit bomb. Completely dry, with exquisite tannins, its blackberry, currant, red licorice and oak-inspired flavors are massive and classic. Hard to exaggerate how good this fine wine is. Drink 2013–2020 and beyond. ——S.H.(5/1/2011)—— 97

A barrel sample of the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cougar Ridge reveals a light, but rich personality with copious amounts of blue fruits interwoven with crushed rocks, a steely framework, medium to full body, and a long finish. (Price not yet determined)Tel. (800) 355-8008; Fax (707) 433-9469

The impressive, powerful 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cougar Ridge (100% Cabernet Sauvignon from a vineyard planted in volcanic soils at a 1300 foot elevation) offers red and black currant, cherry, crushed rock, and smoky burning ember-like characteristics. With great purity and richness as well as full body and a long, heady finish, it will be drinkable between 2008-2020. (Price not yet determined)Tel. (800) 355-8008; Fax (707) 433-9469

The one wine that appears to have outstanding potential is the 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cougar Ridge, which comes from blocks high on the Alexander Mountain Estate. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is extremely tannic, powerful, broodingly backward, and meant for 30-40 years of aging. While tasting the wine, I equivocated whether the tannins were just too ragged and astringent, but there is a lot of concentration in this Cabernet as well as plenty of black fruits, a vivid minerality and a big, forceful, masculine style with plenty of wood. Forget it for another 5-6 years, keep your fingers crossed and hopefully it will turn out to be as outstanding as my rating indicates. All of these Stonestreet offerings were made under winemaker Mike Westrick. Before his death, Jess Jackson as well as his wife, Barbara Banke, agreed that there was often too much tannin and wood in the wines. Those mistakes have been corrected over the last five or six vintages under the guidance of South African winemaker, Graham Weerts.Tel. (800) 355-8008